Understanding types of jewellery

Most items we see fall into three groups. Knowing which group your item fits into helps you understand what can be valued and what information is needed.

Non-precious metal jewellery

• Silver jewellery (with or without stones)
• Gold-plated jewellery (with or without stones)

Precious metal jewellery

• Precious metal jewellery (gold or platinum), with or without diamonds and gemstones

Loose precious stones

• Loose natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds

How our jewellery valuation process works

Silver and gold-plated jewellery (when a valuation is—and isn’t—worth it)

In most cases, it is not commercially viable to value silver or gold-plated jewellery unless it is set with a natural precious stone (for example, a natural diamond or a natural coloured gemstone such as sapphire, ruby, or emerald). In these cases, the main driver of value is usually the stone(s), because the metal value is minimal.

Manufactured stones such as moissanite and cubic zirconia generally have little material value when compared with natural diamonds and gemstones, especially once the cost of a valuation is considered.

Gold-plated jewellery is made by applying a very thin layer of gold over a base metal such as silver, copper, or brass. Because the gold layer is extremely thin, the intrinsic (scrap) value of the metal is usually low.

Precious metal jewellery (gold and platinum)

If the jewellery has no stones (or only low-value stones such as cubic zirconia or moissanite), the valuation process is straightforward: we identify the metal type, measure the total weight, and confirm the purity.

Metal types

Gold

Many jewellery items are hallmarked, but hallmarks are not always present or reliable, so we carry out our own testing. Gold purity is determined by the percentage of pure gold in the alloy (mixed with metals such as silver, copper, and zinc). We use modern X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectrometers to identify metal content and confirm the gold karat (for example, 9K, 14K, 18K, 21K, 22K, or 24K). Valuations are then based on confirmed purity, weight, and prevailing scrap gold market prices.

Platinum

Platinum is commonly used for engagement rings. The most common purity is Platinum 950 (95% pure), although Platinum 900 and 850 can also be found. Platinum is strong and dense, and it maintains its colour over time. As with gold, valuations are based on confirmed purity, weight, and prevailing scrap platinum market prices.

Diamonds and gemstones (loose or set in jewellery)

We generally do not assign material value to imitation stones such as cubic zirconia or moissonite. Where appropriate, we do include lab-grown diamonds in our reports and valuations. To value a diamond or gemstone (whether loose or mounted), we identify the stone and record its key characteristics using an industry-standard grading approach.

Standard precious stone grading report

Our trained gemologists assess the key characteristics of a diamond using the 4Cs: carat, cut, colour, and clarity, and we also record whether the diamond is mined (natural) or lab-grown. For coloured gemstones (such as sapphire, ruby, and emerald) we identify the stone type and record relevant quality factors appropriate to that gemstone. For most jewellery valuations, this standard grading information is sufficient. For rare or high-value stones, we may recommend a more detailed (premium) analysis of proportions and measurements.

Final valuation report

Your final valuation report brings the components together: precious metal value (gold/platinum) plus diamond and gemstone value (where applicable), with the purpose of valuation clearly stated (for example, insurance replacement value vs open market value).

Precious metals with no diamonds or gemstones

For metal-only items, value is typically calculated using the relevant scrap price multiplied by the net precious metal weight (in grams). Net weight is the total item weight less the estimated weight of any non-precious stones.

Precious metals with diamonds and/or gemstones

For jewellery set with diamonds and/or gemstones, there are two parts to the valuation: (1) the precious metal (gold/platinum) content and (2) the diamond/gemstone value based on the grading report.

We calculate the metal component using the relevant scrap price and the estimated net precious metal weight (excluding the estimated weight of diamonds/gemstones). We then add the assessed value of the diamond(s) and/or gemstone(s) based on the grading details recorded in the report.

Valuation types

In our experience, people request a jewellery valuation for different reasons. The purpose matters because it can affect the final figure and how the report is presented. Common valuation types include:

• Insurance valuation (replacement cost)
• Open market valuation (for selling to a jeweller or scrap dealer)
• Probate valuation
• Family division (separation or divorce settlements)